Medieval Life And Death Inside The Walls Of This Royal Castle

Tower of London

Royalty had it privileges— and still does— at the Tower of London, the wildly popular historic and infamous landmark. Behind a massive stone wall is a complex the size of a city encircling a castle. Over 3 million people visit every year, most of whom are willing to wait in a long serpentine line for a glimpse of the Crown Jewels.

The White Tower

William The Conqueror built the White Tower in 1017. The Tower’s large wooden staircase is a heart-pounding climb to the top. Once inside, you’ll see a historic collection of Royal armory and weapons, and other medieval treasures.

A winding narrow stairwell takes you up to multiple levels. Absorb the history of this place. Peek around a stone wall to view the tower’s garderobe, the Royal toilet— no flushing required.

Stark contrasts define White Tower. There’s the beautiful Chapel of St. John, a bright peaceful sanctuary. But, just a short walk from the chapel is the dark horror of the torture chamber.

Bedazzled jewels on one side, ghoulish torture on the other

A few hundred yards from the Crown Jewels is Tower Green, where prisoners, including royalty, were beheaded in full pubic view for crimes against the state, their confessions often secured by physical abuse—torture— in a chamber on the ground level of the White Tower. “The Rack” stretched limbs, ripping them from their sockets. Another device, “The Scavenger’s Daughter,” compressed the body to shatter bones. Both were used in the 16th and 17th centuries. Prisoners confessed to crimes under great physical abuse. A memorial now stands at the execution spot to honor those who were condemned to death.

Tips for a successful visit

Book tickets in advance of your visit, especially during the busy summer tourist season. I reserved a date three weeks before departing for London. Several days during the week of our trip were already sold out. Make your purchase via credit card on the Tower of London website. You’ll receive an email confirmation and an electronic ticket to upload to your smartphone that will be scanned at the entrance.

The Tower of London is accessible to the disabled, but some areas have limited wheelchair accommodations. For instance, there are narrow passages, stairs, cobblestones, and other barriers due to the historic nature of the campus. The Tower’s website has downloadable brochures for both disabled and general visitors.

Take advantage of the free tour by a Yeoman Warder—a Tower guard, otherwise known as a Beefeater. The tours are informative and entertaining. (It’s common for a Warder to poke fun at a tourist or two. Feel free to poke back).

Bring water and wear a good pair of walking shoes. There are quite a few stairs to climb. You’ll get some good exercise so it’s important to stay hydrated, especially in the hot weather months. Arrive early to avoid the heat of the day and the long line outside the entrance to the Crown Jewels.